Words: Louis Olivier Maury
Photography: Christian Tuckwell-Smith
In the annals of horological craftsmanship, where time itself is rendered into an exquisite tableau of artistry and precision, there exists a name whispered with reverence and awe: Vacheron Constantin.
Established in 1755, this venerable atelier has, over the centuries, forged timepieces in the crucible of tradition and innovation, standing as a testament to the relentless pursuit of perfection that has defined it for generations.
Each watch, a symphony of engineering and elegance, encapsulates the timeless virtues of patience, skill, and unerring attention to detail.
Nimhara wears: Vacheron Constantin, Patrimony Self-winding, £35,200, vacheron-constantin.com; Sunspel, Top, £235, sunspel.com; Ricardo wears: Vacheron Constantin, Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date, £47,600, vacheron-constantin.com; Huntsman, Safari Jacket, £1,700, huntsmansavilerow.com
Christian Selmoni on the Future of Watchmaking at Vacheron Constantin
As the esteemed Swiss Maison continues to push the boundaries of horological innovation and artistry, the future beckons for this bastion of watch making prowess. And who better to inform us than the brand’s Style and Heritage Director Christian Selmoni, who we recently had the privilege of speaking with.
Following his appointment in 2017, Christian has been entrusted with the vital responsibilities of enhancing and perpetuating the Maison’s rich legacy. His duties encompass the careful extraction of designs and elements from the past to inform and inspire the contemporary and future creations of Vacheron Constantin.
But to look forward, you must often look back, and that is exactly where Christian begins as he explains that “during its 269-year history, the Maison has always maintained the highest standards in the fields of watchmaking and decorative crafts, and at the same time always showed creativity and an innovative spirit in design and technicality.”
Ricardo wears: Huntsman, Polo Neck, £230, huntsmansavilerow.com
It is here, where he believes that Vacheron Constantin’s future lies as “there is plenty of space to express ourselves in the future in the same areas, whilst at the same time offering timepieces which are and will be perfectly relevant in the present moment.”
However, with a world that is constantly evolving and changing at a rapidly increasing rate, it can become easy to lose core identity and principles due re-adjusting to align with the future. But Vacheron Constantin have no such problem, with a perfect evolvement of its timeless philosophies to the modern day. “We have centuries of experience and we have been able to maintain our traditions”, Christian muses.
“Our style is classic, elegant, sophisticated, and refined, and one of the key missions – for our designers – is to perpetuate such elements of our style while being at the same time contemporary and matching our clients’ expectations.” With this approach, it is little wonder that they have stayed at the forefront; their ability to adapt quickly without compromising on their values ensures that they have not fallen mercy to the whims of the consumerist society.
The Definition of Luxury in Modern Watchmaking
With that in mind, it was interesting to extract ideas from Christian of what the epitome of a luxury watch represents in the current day and how luxury is defined in today’s landscape. He obliges and delves into the detail, “I think that I have to mention some areas of our watchmaking art: we master all aspects – from simple designs to the most complicated, and we take the greatest care into finishings – notably hand-made finishings on our own watchmaking movements, ensuring not only inner and outer beauty, but also longevity.
Nimhara wears: Huntsman, Three Piece Suit, £10,000, huntsmansavilerow.com
For example, we often receive watches from the 19th century for restoration, and such watches are still working perfectly.” Importantly, he highlights the non-negotiable facet of true luxury, which is applicable across the entire industry: “in a world in which digital becomes more and more prominent, this commitment to ultimate craftsmanship is highly important.”
However, whilst Vacheron Constantin may have over 250-years of horological pedigree, it is still a commercial entity and must continue to promote its mission, vision and products. It can’t afford to rest on its laurels and rely on its heritage, and as Christian divulges, nor do they.
With a “very large portfolio of watches, from dress watches, jewelled timepieces, sport-elegant watches to the most exclusive pieces from our Les Cabinotiers workshop, creating unique pieces, [we have a] diversity yet consistency in style and quality [that] is a key element of today’s success of the Maison”, he explains. This spectrum of watches ensures that they can keep attracting new and returning clients all of whom have different requests and desires.
Ricardo wears: Huntsman, Safari Jacket, £1,700, huntsmansavilerow.com
But one may ask, with all the choice, how can you decide? For Christian currently, from the men’s collection, he cites “the Patrimony Retrograde Date and moon phases in white gold with [the] “old silver” dial” as a particular favourite due to the combination of “classic yet contemporary design with a fascinating complication, which is the retrograde date - one of Vacheron Constantin’s technical signatures”.
Conversely, from the women’s collection, the recently released Grand Lady Kalla is “a spectacular high jewellery timepiece with no less than 46.65 carats of emerald-cut diamonds, which can be easily transformable into a pendent watch as a necklace. The interchangeability system works flawlessly.”
Iconic Collections: Patrimony and Overseas
As with any industry leading name, there is always one item, collection or model that becomes a defining feature of said brand, and Vacheron Constantin is no different. The Overseas collection is undoubtedly one of the Maison’s most sought-after and Christian fully understands this.
“It is one of the most appreciated from our clients, who love its sporty-elegant character and its range of movements, from simple models to grand complications such as the Overseas Tourbillon in titanium which recently launched”, he describes, expanding further by highlighting that its versatility plays a crucial role as the “self-interchangeable system for the bracelets gives the opportunity to change them in a few seconds, from metal to rubber or leather.”
Nimhara wears: Huntsman, Mackintosh, £7,500, huntsmansavilerow.com
However, Christian quickly highlights that the “classic watches such as Patrimony, Traditionnelle or Fiftysix are also extremely appreciated”, as well as “watches dedicated to women also gaining importance – such as Egérie.”
The men and women’s watches, however, are not mutually exclusive, and as Christian explains, they have “models for both men and women in many collections, such as Overseas, Patrimony or Traditionnelle sizes,” facilitating the potential for couples to purchase corresponding watches, which for something as prestigious and exquisite as a Vacheron Constantin allows for the fostering of each piece for the next generation of their family. On a personal recommendation, he suggests that the most desirable pair of watches would be the “Historiques American 1921, a legendary timepiece inspired by the 1920’s”.
And what of the couple who we see in the corresponding images to this chronicle? Well, they both wear Patrimony models, specifically Ricardo with the Moon Phase Retrograde Date, whilst Nimhara with the Patrimony Self-Winding. Christian further elaborates on the history of the Patrimony collection, which “is rooted in the 1950’s, a remarkable decade in watch designs, that still inspires today’s designers, as many creations from this decade are extremely elegant and refined.”
Ricardo wears: Huntsman, Suit, £2,850, huntsmansavilerow.com; Huntsman, Shirt, £250, huntsmansavilerow.com; Huntsman, Tie, £165, huntsmansavilerow.com
The collection was designed in 2004, and as he further explains, the idea was to pay tribute to the 1950s, “while offering modern aesthetics and proportions.” The result? “After 20 years of presence – [it is] one of the strongest design expressions of the Maison.”
Crafting for Generations: Men’s and Women’s Timepieces
The collection’s success has been further fortified, as at this year’s Watches and Wonders, the trade show for the watch and jewellery industry, Vacheron Constantin unveiled a new Patrimony model, in white or rose gold.
The intention, as Christian describes, “was to create a timepiece addressed to both men and women thanks to its perfectly balanced design and carefully studied proportions.” It represents yet another stellar addition to the coveted variety of watches delicately crafted by Switzerland’s oldest watch maker.
It is difficult to think of many names that embody true artistry, enduring quality and exquisite precision more than Vacheron Constantin. Their reign at the pinnacle of the horological world continues, and it is little wonder why.
Their brilliance is unequivocal, and as Christian perfectly summarises, “our designs are long-lasting as they are classic and elegant, and we have maintained an exceptional level of craftsmanship. In a nutshell, Vacheron Constantin is all about beautiful high watchmaking.”
Extended Production Team:
Models: Nimhara Hadagiri & Ricardo Dal Moro
Photography & Lighting Assistant: Maddi Knight
Hair & MUA: Margherita Lascala
Creative Director: Luke Brown
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