I am often cautious that gastronomic writing can come off too flowery, too pretentious, and too much like hard work to read. After all, you are only reading to find out whether you may want to go and eat somewhere; to work out if it is worth spending money on.
So, with that said, this principle has made my life somewhat difficult in penning my thoughts about a recent trip to the brilliant Water House Project, in Bethnal Green. Why? Well, because every positive adjective under the sun can be used to describe the East London establishment; it is, in every way deserving of the praise.
The Tranquil Atmosphere at The Water House Project
So, as I sat delayed on the train, racing back from an editorial photoshoot earlier in the day, anxiety crept in that I would be late to my booking. I was right, I was late, but luckily, the friend who I was dining with was there to hold the fort. I arrived at Bethnal Green station, and raced up the bustling streets, and navigated my way to the destination, arriving with a slight sweat, furrowed brow, and breathless. Talk about arriving in style…
However, as I reached The Water House Project, located on a quieter crescent off the main road, its mysterious exterior beckoned me in, and as I entered, calm finally descended. It was though I had stepped into a world of tranquillity; I had to pinch myself that I was in the right place.
After the manic head on battle with London rush hour, the atmosphere of The Water House Project was the antidote. Soft, warm lighting, neutral colour palettes, textiles adorning the walls and windows tempered the underlying industrial brutalism of the building shell. A gentle hum of conversation and chatter drifted through the air as couples relaxed prior to the start of the culinary show.
If I hadn’t known better, I may have thought I had just arrived home after a long day of work. And it is this sentiment that guides Chef Gabriel Waterhouse’s vision of his eponymous restaurant.
Chef Gabriel Waterhouse: A Visionary Behind the Restaurant's Success
A graduate of Chris and Jeff Galvin’s Michelin Starred Galvin La Chapelle, Gabriel Waterhouse began his venture out of his Bethnal Green flat in 2015 as a supper club, which slowly morphed into him transitioning the project to a brick-and-mortar venue.
Cue, the building I currently find myself in. The theme of the supper club-cum-chefs table (and speaking of Supper Clubs, we recently took a deep dive into their revival which you can read about here) has remained and is central to his mission, and this is most evident with the layout of the Nordic inspired interiors. An open plan kitchen and dining room blend seamlessly, allowing a refreshing informality facilitating interaction between diner and chef.
The whole ambience, décor, and relationship between client and staff is directed towards an affable atmosphere that resembles the home dinner party. And so whilst you may have your own table ensuring the intimacy between your own party, the cordial environment created facilitates a far more friendly interaction between all patrons and staff.
A Culinary Journey: The 10-Course Tasting Menu at The Water House Project
When the 10-course tasting menu spectacle starts (all tables have each dish served at the same time), conversation, questions and dialogue are encouraged. As each dish is explained to you by the waiter or waitress serving your table, you will find yourself engrossed and intrigued in the intricacies of each dish, and the story or ingredients behind them.
Engaging Service and Interaction at The Water House Project
The staff are fervent about conversing on the finer details of what they are serving and I couldn’t get enough. I have had similar experience in the past, but none as engaging as this, and it begs the question why it’s not the norm for fine dining. After all, it is a creative experience and spectacle.
Anyway, before I go off on a tangent about the idiosyncrasies of fine dining service, I will hold my tongue and move onto the main event.
The food is exquisite. There is no more elaboration needed. We went with the paired wine flight, and I can also confirm that the tipples served were similarly delicious.
Highlights of the Menu: From Mackerel to Herwick Hogget Loin
If my bluntness has somehow not convinced you, then perhaps a quick breakdown of what we were served will. The four different hors d’œuvre that we started with, which included a complex, warming broth of Cep, Lemon Balm and Smoked Mussel, and the delicately balanced Mackerel, Apple and Beetroot, with freshly picked wild garlic from Epping Forest, immediately threw down the gauntlet for what was to come. Dishes that challenged pre-conceptions, made you think, and most importantly made you want more.
Later The Herwick Hogget Loin, Black Garlic and Artichoke Paste, Mint and Curd, followed by the Hogget Breast with a Seaweed Crumpet was mouth-watering, offering a wide spectrum of flavours that combined in perfect osmosis.
Unique Flavors: Sheep’s Milk Sorbet and Squid Noodles
The novel Sheep’s Milk Sorbet, Sorrel, Oat’s and Dill was a fascinating dish that amalgamated bitter, tart and sweet flavour profiles in a truly unique way. I can’t say I have had too much cheese on sweet desserts before, but it worked exceptionally well here.
What about the Poached Cornish Pollock, Smoked Herring Roe, Squid and Seaweed alongside a Vermouth Sauce? Sublime, and who knew that squid could be made into noodles!
Final Thoughts: Why The Water House Project Redefines Fine Dining in London
It was a truly faultless performance. 10/10. I have no guilt about my gushing because The Water House Project changed my outlook on how fine dining should be executed. Yes, the traditional formality often associated with the industry has its place, but this is the way forward.
Genuine passion, relaxing informality and first-rate cooking collide at The Water House Project, so stop wasting time, and book yourself in, but make sure to not be late!
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