By Mallory Legg
Under a soft glow of string lights in a hidden London garden, a diverse group of young professionals sits comfortably yet vibrantly around an intricate and intentionally set table, sharing plates and pitchers are passed back and forth as the conversations maintain an air of excitement while the night grows longer.
This isn’t a typical high-end restaurant, nor a trendy bistro; it is the latest iteration of a dining revolution (similar to that of the small plate revolution which you can read more about here) quietly sweeping not just London but most young cities and, along with it, the aesthetically inclined on social media. The modern supper club is a melting pot of culinary innovation, social networking, and Gen Z entrepreneurial and aesthetic spirit.
A Brief History of Supper Clubs
While the spirit of the supper club seems relatively young, its roots go back nearly a century to 1933, when, in the wake of the prohibition lift in America, the first supper club was born in Beverly Hills. Supper clubs represented all the same components as the roadhouses and speakeasies of the prohibition era, like food, drink, music, and dancing, but on a more elaborate scale.
They offered the finest, in grand art deco palaces with exceptional American dishes, entertainment, and service. Everyone who was anyone was making appearances in New York’s famous Rainbow Room or Copacabana. Unfortunately, though, the reign of supper clubs somewhat dissipated come the 60s, to be tucked away for some time until the new generations of the 21st century chose to reclaim it.
It was the pandemic that reminded us all of how powerful social connection is, so once the bans were lifted and we were able to gather at the table again, ambitious home cooks reignited the supper club to bring what otherwise may have been strangers to the same table to connect over carefully curated menus and audacious tablescapes, reminiscent of the grandiosity of the art deco period in which supper clubs were born.
The Rebirth of The Supper Club
Post-pandemic, the values of the younger generations have shifted. Though many may be chronically online, it is within the online domain that young people are getting inspired for experience. In an age where nearly any person, especially creatives, can now have viral platforms, scrolling through curated feeds on Instagram, TikTok, or Pinterest inspires those listening to take action, follow pursuits, and craft tastes.
Within the doom scrolling there is a search for authenticity and excitement which ignites progressive spirits. In a single session, one can pocket unparalleled culinary recipes, emerging brands, not-yet-discovered artists, restaurant recommendations, or inspiration for design and interiors.
And with this yearning for connection, it is no wonder that much of this inspiration has been funneled into the romanticization of mealtime and an interest in hanging out with strangers - so the supper club has re-entered the chat.
Supper Club Inspirations
Supper clubs first came on my radar in a social media scroll when I stumbled upon a post by Xanthe Gladstone (now Xanthe Ross); it was probably some elaborate eggs on toast or a table spread with the most unique yet perfect color palette. Now, I’m an avid follower, and when I think supper clubs not only do I think about the supper clubs she hosts, but I think of her page as being the blueprint for the supper club allure, the vibe.
Think mismatched plates and chairs, natural wine, poached pears and spritzes as the sun sets on the garden. What I initially loved about this page and Xanthe’s events, though, was that equal attention was put into the food and culinary experience as was the visuals.
With an emphasis on the fresh and vibrant, her menus seem to glow alight which illuminates faces at the table. It's one of those experiences where you feel like you have touched grass after coming away from it; a real backyard social gathering but this time with more than a few pink bows tied around it.
A Pioneer of The Supper Club Aesthetic: Herrlich Dining
Photo: Herrlich Dining Website
From there, I came across Herrlich Dining, a page not so much centered around a supper club but moreso the mood that a supper club like, say Xanthes or like many viral videos or events, might inspire. 24 year old food stylist and recipe author Hannah Kleeberg connects people through food and began her internet journey where she performs and promotes recipe workshops, cooking classes, and food styling hacks.
Last year, Herrlich Dining hosted four community dinners with a rooted belief that hospitality can be re-thought to be gathered around one long table and, in their words, ‘turning the anonymity of sitting in the same restaurant but not getting to talk to each other, into an evening of coming as a stranger and leaving as a friend’.
"The energy is different in every arena of the supper club because they take on the energy of the host..."
This is the kind of inspiration that is pulled from social media, proof that these sort of perfect imperfections in the hosting, dining and socialising realm is real and perhaps any one of us could pull it off. That withstanding, sometimes we need the proper inspiration, the aforementioned are those inspirations who have followed their pursuits and are now using their successes and vision to push their invisible friends on their feeds to do the same.
With all this said, supper clubs are great because they are individual think pieces. By that I mean, they are projects executed by individuals (or teams) and are completely molded to those people who are fulfilling it. This means, the energy is different in every arena of the supper club because they take on the energy of the host.
Introducing AYO Collective
Photo: AYO Collective Website
If you’re looking for a night that is completely centered around food and drink, with less clutter, its AYO Collective, founded by Henny and Victor, that you should be looking out for as they combine the multicultural palettes of the global diaspora whilst maintaining cultural authenticity through an innovative lens.
Think pannacotta with Tropical Fruit Salsa and Citrus Lulo Dressing with Burnt Honey Caramel or Aged Mackerel with Apple and Fermented Locust Bean.
Amusement in Abundance with Mam Sham, The Comedy Supper Club
Photo: Mam Sham Website
Alternatively, there's those supper clubs which are arenas for endorsements, where artists, talents, individuals and businesses, through sponsorships or performance, get bolstered to a crowd of likeminded peoples.
What The Independent once called ‘the hottest ticket in town’ Maria Georgiou and Rhiannon Butler aka Mam Sham are the hosts of a comedy supper club with food inspired by the sets that they perform.
In this case, silly people who are looking for a comedic experience come to this supper club while the comedy duo market themselves and their talent to happy, full, and excited people. It's brilliant.
Some Closing Thoughts on Supper Clubs
The thing about supper clubs… is that not only are we much closer to the other patrons at the event, we are also closer to the chefs, learning their journeys and experiences through their dishes and walking away with a new found knowledge about different cultures and hospitality traditions, the histories of production or the significance of ingredients that go into the making of a menu and a concept.
In a sense, it's a way of eating that incorporates both empathy and community, playing on the values of a post pandemic world full of people who know what it means to be isolated and are looking for ways to avoid it.
"The supper club is a phenomenon which represents how human we are, combined with how our taste has developed as the generations evolve..."
The supper club is a dining experience that leaves you affected upon your journey home. Maybe you met someone there who will be in your life forever more, maybe your world view has totally shifted, maybe you found your new favourite artist or your ideal cuisine, maybe you are inspired to host a dinner party.
Regardless, the rise in supper club popularity as an idea or as an outing signifies a changing landscape of dining and social interaction, showing the real potential that city dwellers are valuing community more than ever and prioritising inspiration and maximilism over refined minimalism.
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